IN THE BEGINNING

Day#1

The great luxury of the Flora is the ever-ready HOT shower and, after 10 minutes in Nairobi, you need it. The usual buffet breakfast, if one is lucky and I was, has some fried eggs instead of the ever present gruel and wonder bread. John was late and I was restless so I got a cab to take to the first place we were to visit, the Ushirika Clinic in Kibera. I had to get Kenyan schillings (they refer to them colloquially as "bob"). Now what I rather slowly discovered after 4 different ATM stops is that the Kenyan banks abhor MasterCard (which I possessed) and love Visa (which I don't). So by the time I got to the Clinic, there were John and Kennedy Obuya waiting for me. Kennedy is the chief of security for James Rege, the MP whose district includes Kendu Bay. We did tour the clinic and met the personnel (pictures included). and then made plans to visit Kibera itself the following day.

With Kennedy's help, I did get my "bob" and at 95 to the dollar you do feel flush until you actually buy something. Inflation is galloping here in Africa. In Kenya in July and August alone, inflation was over 30%.

Later around 1700 we did met with James Rege and and the mayor of Kendu Bay. We did arrange to tour the medical facilities there with him on Saturday. Then back to the Flora. Supper was over so we took a cab to the local version of Burger King/Kentucky Fried chicken, sipped our beers and discussed the plans for Tuesday.

Day # 2-Tuesday, August 23rd

We met with Kennedy and a Nairobi detective, Lawrence, who lives in Kibera. Kibera (pictures), although physically one huge slum is actually divided into villages and the various tribes congregate together in separate ones. The ones that are allied are closer together and separated from the other non-allied so the Luos are separate from the Kikuyu. These two are the major rivals. But, like brain chemistry, that is a very simplified version and there are many nuances. As you look at the photos, you will see the open sewerage running by and the children playing in and nearby. As for children, you can see how much like the Pied Piper, John truly is. A return to the Clinic for more discussion of their needs and then a visit to a government clinic just at the edge of Kibera. We met there with the"personal assistant to the prime minister" or so his card read and he promised to send us a report on which clinics he felt would be in most need and be most reliable. He never did!

Then back to the Flora. This time we did make it to supper.

Back in the Land of the Round Doorknob

A long trip and a long goodbye but only for a time and, perhaps, this time it won't be so long. Certainly not four years.

Forty hours on the road. The trip to Portland, a sad "aufwiedersehn" to my dear Gerda. The usual lousy movie on the bus but, if you leave the sound off, it ain't so bad as you can create whatever dialogue that pleases.

The airport, checking-in and taking off the belt, shoes and pockets. Through the body scanner-a bit more radiation to add to the rads that I have accumulated over the decades. A bit like the 1/10% benzoate of soda that now percolates through my vessels. The long flight to Frankfurt, a race through the endless corridors and moving belts to get to the short trip to Zurich. The same at Zurich. I used to get excited to get my passport stamped. Made it to the Nairobi plane with 15 minutes to spare and, mirabili dictu, the flight was only about 1/3 full. The shear joy and comfort of stretching out on two whole seats and actually sleeping.

No mishaps and the long line to get my visa-what a beautiful picture I take. Finally out the door and there were my friends waiting, Dr. John Ott and several others that played such an important role in facilitating this trip.

First though there was Bernard, a student whom Gerda has sponsored for years. Grown up and now beginning his third university year. Then a hand-off of a bag of clothes and books that I had brought.

Then there was Kennedy, an aide to James Rege, member of parliament, and he is very important to this tale.

Two students of John's rounded out the group and, of course, Winnifred, the representative of the Matibabu Foundation whose clinic I had promised to visit during this trip.

Greetings, handshakes all around and then off to the Flora Hostel, a place that Gerda and I stay at when we are in Nairobi. Run by the Carmalite Sisters, it is very tidy and the fee includes all meals. It ain't the Ritz but it quite safe.

Into bed and finally more SLEEP. In the morning we go to Kibera, a huge slum on the outskirts of Nairobi, reputed to be the largest in the world housing over 250,000 people, where we were to see a clinic, Ushirika Clinic, that we might support and work at.

So now I will sleep and then when I can I will continue with the story of this trip. Futher episodes to follow in the amazing adventures of Dr. Stephen.